In June this year African Wildlife Safaris Destination Specialist James Cameron visited Natural Selection’s newly-opened luxury lodge Tawana – situated in a secluded, game-rich pocket of the renowned Moremi Game Reserve.
It was a thrill to return to Botswana again, and I was lucky to visit a few lodges operated by our close working partner, and seasoned safari operator, Natural Selection (NS). Tawana was one of these properties, and it did not disappoint!
I met NS guide Kyle McIntyre in Maun and from there we reached Tawana by helicopter, which gave a breathtaking birds-eye view of the landscape below. With much of southern Africa experiencing a serious drought, the landscape was a mottled brown and gold, speckled with patches of green and blue from the remaining water sources. It may not be the lush, green landscapes of February/March, but the dry season (May-Oct) is the best time for wildlife viewing.
On arrival, we met Tawana guide Aubrey, and took a short 5 minute drive to camp to get settled in. I was blown away by Tawana as soon as I walked down the reed-covered path to the main area. It was simply incredible! All of a sudden you are met with a spectacular view over the floodplain in front of the camp, filled with abundant wildlife and the chirping of birds that nest in the tree canopies surrounding the lodge. Enjoying a delicious late lunch, we sat down on the deck and looked out over the plains… spotting elephant, several antelope species and even a couple of lions off in the distance, all over a glass of wine!
A simply Outstanding Camp
Accommodated in a air-conditioned family suite (below), we each had a bedroom and ensuite bathroom to ourselves, with a beautiful communal space in the middle. The private deck spans the whole suite, and includes an outdoor shower, Sala and private plunge pool. After doing a thorough walkthrough of the suite, I thought how much the accommodation – and family accommodation in particular – has changed since I first visited Africa with my parents 23 years ago! Not just accomodation, but the lodges themselves. Bigger, grander, but more family-friendly too. Of Tawana’s eight suites, THREE are 2-bedroom family suites. Which says a lot about the demand for both family safaris, and multi-generational safaris to Africa.
I’ve been lucky to stay at many stunning lodges over my years of travelling – whether in Africa or other parts of the world – but Tawana might just be the best I’ve seen. It wasn’t just about the superb finishings of the rooms and main lodge, or the ample sitting areas and beautiful outdoor plunge pool, it was also the location. The setting looking out over the floodplain was just unreal. I even video-chatted our GM Annie to show her the view as she had wanted a full update on Tawana! It was just beautiful, being able to relax outside on the sun-bed and watch the parade of animals walking through this paradise that is the Moremi.
The entire lodge was thoughtfully and ingeniously designed, with features such as lockers in the main area for storing your cameras and bags without having to go back to your room. The lounge and dining areas were sensational, opening up onto a huge outdoor deck with a built-in pizza oven and mesmerising views of the floodplain. The deck led out to a large fire pit that was popular both before and after dinner.
Even though you had your own private plunge pool, if you wished you could go and swim some laps at the lodge’s 16-metre lap pool which of course, also overlooked the floodplain, and was surrounded by a huge deck with plenty of sun-lounges. If the yoga mats and gym weights provided in-room weren’t enough, you could also visit the actual gym, or enjoy ample space to walk laps during the day along the lengthy raised boardwalk.
It’s not just the luxurious rooms and communal areas that make a camp special either, or the views…. but the staff. All the staff at Tawana were amazing, and ready to assist at the drop of a hat. Whether it was the porters, camp mangers, waiters or chefs. Nothing was too much trouble. I quickly discovered as well that Aubrey, our guide, was first-class. Even though the camp had only been open less than 2 months his knowledge of the area, as well as the wildlife, and particularly birdlife, was second-to-none. His extremely personable manner also made him easy to talk to and share stories with.
Incredible Wildlife Sightings
The game-viewing was next level as well. It is just such a beautiful area of the Okavango to explore. On our first afternoon drive we came across two young male cheetahs which were in their prime and the picture of health. We followed them as they walked across the plains, stopping every now and then on a termite mound to survey the horizon looking for prey. Eventually they did come across a herd of impala. Aubrey drove forward and parked the vehicle in the perfect spot to see the action unfold, without getting in their way. They had some cover to help them, and we saw a flash as one of the cheetah took off like lightening. He ran through the thicket in front scattering the impala. Aubrey turned on the vehicle and we raced through the bush to find both boys resting on a termite mound, panting. This time it was a lucky escape for the impala! When dusk approached we left them to rest and went off to find a spot to enjoy sundowners, the perfect way to finish an exciting day.
The following day was just as magical. We woke to lions roaring, and after a quick breakfast, jumped in the vehicle and came across two big male lions within 300 metres of camp! They were eating a wildebeest they had managed to hunt during the night. Some of the pride’s lionesses were nearby and we followed one when she went down to the water to drink. Afterward, we came back to the two boys and watched them fascinated as they continued to demolish the carcass.
A little while later we came across another group of lions on the hunt. This time there were four females with 4 very active cubs which were playing with each other and jumping through the water. One of the females decided to hunt some impala which were off in the distance, who were amongst some long grass. She stalked her prey for a long time, keeping an eye on the cubs behind. After some 20-30 minutes, she decided to go for for them, but gave up almost instantly, realising it was best not to expend her energy on this occasion.
The birdlife around Tawana was also sensational and we came across plenty of iconic species including fish eagles, herons, kori bustards and even a Pel’s Fishing Owl.
Birdlife – WOW!
As Kyle and I didn’t really mind where we went for our final afternoon game drive, Aubrey took us to an area he was yet to traverse, to see if we could find a rare Pel’s Fishing Owl he had heard might be in the vicinity. The area around Tawana is a simply gorgeous part of the Okavango Delta, with palm trees and floodplains around every corner, and wildlife wherever you look.
After a slow 1 hour drive, we got to an area on the edge of a lagoon, supposedly where the owl could be found. We drove slowly along the edge, Aubrey’s eyes scanning the high tree line for any sign of birdlife. After a few minutes we jumped out the car and walked a little way in, looking up in a few large trees. Aubrey stopped and pointed, and high up on one of the branches was a beautiful owl! I’d hardly got a chance to look through my binoculars before it was gone! These owls are very elusive and shy. Luckily it had only flown to another tree not far away. So we walked over to get a closer look. Again, another quick sighting in the tree branches before it flew off again! Luckily, back to the branch it had been on previously. We walked back and forth a few more times following the owl, until finally we decided to let it rest in peace. It was great to see such a rare sighting – and know that they are there to find as well! Botswana – and Tawana – is really a bird-lovers dream!
Across the two days I had at Tawana the birdlife was astounding. I saw a huge variety, including Fish Eagles, Heron’s, lapwings, and one of my other favourite sightings, a beautiful Tawny Eagle perched on a branch with the full moon directly behind it!
Tawana was simply incredible and left me with so many great memories. To spend time in such a pristine environment where nature thrives in abundance was inspiring and uplifting. I can highly recommend it to anyone looking for a true wilderness experience!
To learn more or book your Botswana Safari, contact James on 03 9249 3729
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